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Fish Hook
A fish hook or fishhook is a device for finding and catching fish either by impaling them in the mouth or, considerably more rarely, by snagging the body of the fish. Fish hooks have been employed for centuries by anglers to catch fresh and saltwater fish. In 2005, the fish hook was chosen by Forbes as one of the top twenty equipment in the history of man.|1| Fish hooks are normally attached to some form of line or perhaps lure which connects the caught fish to the fisherman. There is an enormous variety of seafood hooks in the world of fishing. Sizes, designs, shapes, and materials are all variable depending on the designed purpose of the fish catch. Fish hooks are manufactured for your range of purposes from standard fishing to extremely limited and specialized applications. Fish hooks are designed to hold various kinds of artificial, processed, lifeless or live baits (bait fishing); to act as the inspiration for artificial representations of fish prey (fly fishing); or to be attached to or perhaps integrated into other devices that represent fish prey (lure fishing).
The fish filling device or similar device has been made by man for many many years. The world's oldest fish hooks (they were made by sea snails shells) were discovered in Sakitari Cave in Okinawa Island dated between 22, 380 and twenty-two, 770 years old.|2||3| They are older than the fish hooks from the Jerimalai cave in East Timor dated between 23, 500 and 16, 000 years of age,|4| and New Ireland in Papua Fresh Guinea dated 20, 000 to 18, 000 years old.|2|
An early written reference to a fish hook is found with reference to the Leviathan in the Book of Job 41: 1; Canst thou draw out leviathan using a hook? Fish hooks had been crafted from all sorts of materials including wood, animal|5| and human bone, car horn, shells, stone, bronze, flat iron, and up to present day components. In many cases, hooks were made out of multiple materials to influence the strength and positive characteristics of each material. Norwegians simply because late as the 1950s still used juniper solid wood to craft Burbot hooks.|6| Quality metallic hooks began to make their appearance in Europe in the 17th century and hook making became a task for experts.
Typically referred to parts of a fish hook are: its point, the sharp end that penetrates the fish's mouth area or flesh; the barb, the projection extending in reverse from the point, that guard the fish from unhooking; a persons vision, the loop in the end from the hook that is connected to the angling line or lure; the bend and shank, that portion of the hook that connects the point and the attention; and the gap, the distance between shank and the point. Oftentimes, hooks are described by making use of these various parts of the lift, for example: wide gape, prolonged shank, hollow point or perhaps out turned eye.
Modern day hooks are manufactured from either high-carbon steel, steel alloyed with vanadium, or stainless steel, according to application. Most quality fish hooks are covered with a form of corrosion-resistant surface layer. Corrosion resistance is required not merely when hooks are used, especially in saltwater, but while they are kept. Additionally , coatings are given to color and/or provide visual value to the hook. At least, hooks designed for freshwater make use of are coated with a clear lacquer, but hooks are also coated with gold, dime, Teflon, tin and different colors.
There are a large number of different types of seafood hooks. At the macro level, there are bait hooks, fly hooks and lure hooks. Within these broad classes there are wide varieties of filling device types designed for different applications. Hook types differ fit and healthy, materials, points and barbs, and eye type, and ultimately in their intended app. When individual hook types are designed the specific characteristics of each of these hook components will be optimized relative to the hook's intended purpose. For example , a fragile dry fly hook is made of thin wire with a pointed eye because weight is definitely the overriding factor. Whereas Carlisle or Aberdeen light cable bait hooks make use of slender wire to reduce injury to live bait but the eyes are not really tapered because weight is certainly not an issue. Many factors develop hook design, including corrosion resistance, weight, strength, hooking efficiency, and whether the fishing hook is being used for specific types of bait, on different types of lures or for different kinds of flies. For each hook type, there are ranges of suitable sizes. For all types of hooks, sizes range from thirty-two (the smallest) to 20/0 (the largest).
Hook forms and names are as varied as fish themselves. In some cases hooks are discovered by a traditional or historical name, e. g. Aberdeen, Limerick or O'Shaughnessy. In other cases, hooks are merely identified by their general purpose or have built into their name, one or more with their physical characteristics. Some companies just give their hooks unit numbers and describe all their general purpose and characteristics. Such as:
Eagle Claw: 139 can be described as Snelled Baitholder, Offset, Down Eye, Two Slices, Channel Wire
Lazer Sharp: L2004EL is a Circle Sea, Wide Gap, Non-Offset, Ringed Attention, Light Wire
Mustad Model: 92155 is a Beak Baitholder hook
Mustad Model: 91715D is an O'Shaughnessy Jig Hook, 90 degree angle
TMC Model 300: Streamer D/E, 6XL, Heavy wire, Forged, Bronze
TMC Model 200R: Nymph & Dry Soar Straight eye, 3XL, Common wire, Semidropped point, Signed, Bronze
The shape of the filling device shank can vary widely via merely straight to all sorts of curves, kinks, bends and offsets. These different shapes add in some cases to better hook transmission, fly imitations or trap holding ability. Many hooks intended to hold dead or artificial baits have chopped shanks which create barbs for better baiting positioning ability. Jig hooks are designed to have lead weight contoured onto the hook shank. Hook descriptions may also contain shank length as regular, extra long, 2XL, short, etc . and wire size such as fine wire, extra heavy, 2X heavy, etc .
Hooks are designed as either solitary hooks-a single eye, shank and point; double hooks-a single eye merged with two shanks and items; or triple-a single vision merged with three shanks and three evenly spread points. Double hooks will be formed from a single bit of wire and may or may not have their shanks brazed together meant for strength. Treble hooks will be formed by adding a single eyeless hook to a double hook and brazing all three shanks together. Double hooks are used on some artificial tackle and are a traditional fly lift for Atlantic Salmon jigs, but are otherwise fairly unheard of. Treble hooks are used in all sorts of artificial lures as well as a wide variety of bait applications.
The hook point is probably the essential part00 of the hook. It is the stage that must penetrate fish real world and secure the seafood. The profile of the filling device point and its length effect how well the point permeates. The barb influences how long the point penetrates, how much pressure is required to penetrate and in the end the holding power of the hook. Hook points happen to be mechanically (ground) or chemically sharpened. Some hooks happen to be barbless. Historically, many old fish hooks were barbless, but today a barbless filling device is used to make hook removing and fish release not as much stressful on the fish. Lift points are also described relative to their offset from the hook shank. A kirbed filling device point is offset to the left, a straight point has no offset and a reversed stage is offset to the best suited.
Care needs to be taken when ever handling hooks as they can 'hook' the user. If a fishing hook goes in deep enough under the barb, pulling the catch out will tear the flesh. There are three approaches to remove a hook. The very first is by cutting the flesh to remove it. The second is to cut the eye of the hook away and then push the remainder on the hook through the flesh plus the third is to place pressure on the shank towards the flesh which pulls the barb into the now oval gap then push the hook out the way it came in.
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